Skipton: The Gateway to the Dales

A Brief History

Skipton is often considered to be the quintessential Yorkshire market town, with the outline of its streets largely unchanged since the Middle Ages. In 1086 it was mentioned in William the Conqueror’s Domesday Book as “Scepton” or sheep town. This is an apt name as in the Middle Ages, Skipton was a ‘wool town’, extending either side of a main thoroughfare below a castle of 11th century origins and a medieval parish church. To read about my visit to the Castle and Church, together with the achievements of the redoubtable Lady Anne Clifford click here. However, the story of the history and architecture of Skipton town is worthy of particular consideration.

Standing before the parish church and looking down beyond the 1922 War Memorial (Fig 1), with its bronze statue of Winged Victory, the High Street stretches before you. The impressive breadth of the main axis of the town accommodated regular markets in the Middle Ages following the granting of a Royal Charter by King John in 1204.

Skipton still largely retains its medieval system of streets, ginnels and yards; however, since the days of Anne Clifford and the Civil War, the town has developed into a Yorkshire market town with a rich history that evolved through the following centuries. An important centre for woollen textiles since Middle Ages, it became a major centre for cotton manufacturing in the 19th century, by which time the town was well served by roads, canals and the emerging railways.

The history of Skipton can be best appreciated by strolling the streets and alleyways as well as taking the picturesque canal towpaths and the trail along Eller Beck to Skipton Castle Woods.

Geology

The building stone of Skipton provides an interesting clue to its nickname as ‘Gateway to the Dales’. The town is a mix of coarse millstone grit, of the broad type that can be found in the Pennine hills, and the Carboniferous limestones of the Yorkshire Dales. The former were worked into ashlar blocks for the more important buildings, such as the castle and church, whilst the latter were termed freestones and used for rubble walling. The latter were often ‘slobbered‘; a delightful Yorkshire name for the limestone rubble walls which were then slobbered with lime mortar to bind them together and prevent penetration by rainwater.

Typical of the architecture of this area are vernacular buildings with limestone rubble walls and millstone grit ashlar quoins that hold the rubble wall in place (Fig 2). Some are of a coursed rubble whereby the stones are irregular but laid in uniform rows, but many are true rubble walled where the stonework is more erratic. Many are then rendered and painted.

Roofs also varied, with higher class buildings roofed in Welsh or similar slate, whilst cheaper vernacular buildings used heavier graduated stone slab roofs constructed from local sandstones. Not strictly speaking ‘slate’, they were traditionally known in Yorkshire as ‘thackstones’, where the sandstone rock is split into ‘slates’ by hand or by frost along the bedding plane. These roofs tend to be significantly lower in pitch due to the weight of the slates or slabs. Further identifiable as, because of this weight, they are laid in ‘diminishing courses’ whereby the slates reduce in size, and therefore heaviness, towards the ridge. The effect of this weight on the wooden rafters creates a sagging appearance in many of the older buildings! Examples of rubble wall, coursed rubble, rendering, together with slate and thackstone roofs, can be seen in Figure 2.

Highlights of the Town

From the top of the wide High Street, passing by the war memorial, the visitor finds an eclectic series of buildings reflecting the various stages of the town’s prosperity over the centuries. The historic centre of the town is mostly unaffected by the 20th century ‘improvements’ which are mainly confined to the outskirts.

The Town Hall 1861-2

Whilst not on the scale of the larger Victorian town halls to be found in neighbouring Yorkshire cities, this is without doubt a handsome presence on Skipton High Street.

Seven bays wide, it was built of ashlar stone in the Neoclassical style that was widely used in civic buildings in the mid-19th century. However, Skipton Town Hall is true to the proportions and symmetry of Palladianism rather than the full-blown Neoclassical style. Typical features include a balustrade that conceals the roof, and prominent quoins at either end of the building. Architecturally, the emphasis is on the piano nobile which has segmental pediments to the outer windows and, to the upper storey of the portico, with an eye-catching balustraded, tetrastyle balcony. Corinthian columns support a plain entablature and pediment. The ground floor has three classical arched entrances with keystones and attached Corinthian columns and classical pilasters.

Internally, the building has been subject to renovation work, the most significant of which was in 1875-8 by the Bradford firm of Lockwood and Mawson whose influence was significant throughout the old West Riding of Yorkshire in the Victorian era. The Town Hall’s Italianate Assembly Room is in keeping with many of their commissions. Providing another Yorkshire connection was the the firm of Robert ‘Mousey’ Thompson whose signature was a small carved mouse They renewed the beautiful oak fittings and included a ‘hidden door to the neighbouring Georgian buildings which contained the mayor’s parlour.

Public Library 1906-10

Across the High Street from the Town Hall is the notable Skipton Public Library. Built in the first decade of the 20th century, it was partly funded by the Carnegie Trust, who funded many libraries in the North of England through the support of the Scottish-American philanthropist, Andrew Carnegie.

The Edwardian era was a period when architectural styles were in a state of flux with a more eclectic use of motifs. The library is described as ‘Mixed Renaissance’ which suggests a loosening of the Neoclassical and an introduction of Baroque features. Indeed, this period is often referred to as Edwardian Baroque, but here there are also emerging Art Nouveau motifs.

As a result, the façade has a rich variety of features, including a rusticated ground floor with segmental arched windows. The doorway has allegorical carvings, with figures representing art and literature to the sides. In the centre is a bust, representing knowledge, which has an Art Nouveau/Baroque feel with floral swags, volutes and horns of plenty between sinuous Wyverns. This feature acts as a corbel to the splendid chamfered, oriel window.  The centre bay of the building is flanked by pilasters that rise the height of the building, culminating in floral Ionic capitals above which is a frieze carved with ‘Free Library’. The roof has a pediment with an ocular window framed by an eclectic mix of architectural features. Altogether a handsome building.

The Tollbooth or Old Town Hall 1789

The Old Town Hall fronts both Sheep Street and the High Street. The High Street façade has round-headed arcading of five bays that now front commercial units. The Sheep Street side sits on a cobbled street with a mix of buildings along both sides. Here, the Georgian building has stone steps rising to a first-floor doorway with a classical surround of fluted pilasters and triangular open pediment. The building still retains the 24 pane Georgian sash windows and is divided into bays by pilasters with fluted capitals. As well as a tollbooth, to collect duties on local goods, it has also been a court house and prison.

The building has a rustic appearance with coursed rubble walls and ashlar quoins. This suggests the building was 1600s and altered in the Georgian period rather than being completely rebuilt. Together with the cobbled Sheep Street, it creates an air of late medieval charm and is a popular street along which to stroll away from the traffic on the busy High Street.

 Craven Terrace c1850

In common with many Yorkshire towns of medieval origin, including examples such as Leeds and Richmond, Skipton was once comprised of ‘burgage plots. This refers to the pattern of narrow pieces of land stretching back from street frontages that were a feature of English medieval towns. Originally, these were mixed usage with a shop or other commercial building to the fore with accommodation either above or behind and then an area for a small holding or workspace. The burgage plot layout dates back to the Norman period and frequently influenced the later pattern of building. The medieval plan of Skipton can still be experienced by following the alleys and ginnels that lead off the main thoroughfares to where the visitor can find the surviving yards that once separated the medieval burgage plots.

The best surviving example of these yards is Craven Terrace, which leads off Sheep Street. Here there is a terrace of attractive cottages (Fig 6) dating back to the end of the Georgian period. Creating a harmonious whole, they are built of slobbered limestone walls under stone slate roofs.  The doors and windows have solid, plain stone jambs, sills and lintels and each cottage has a round arched-light staircase window with radiating glazing bars. Some cottages still retain the original twelve light sash windows, but there are several modern doorways and windows.

Woolly Sheep Inn 1777

Skipton, in keeping with the typical rural market town, has a rich heritage of public houses. One particularly popular example is the Woolly Sheep Inn (Fig 7) at the bottom of Sheep Street where it occupies one of the long burgage plots. Recorded as an inn from 1777, it is situated where, until 1899, the cattle market and fair were held. Formerly the Brick Inn, it would have served the farmers and cattle dealers who came to market. It received the tourist-friendly name ‘The Woolly Sheep Inn’ during the 1990s. This name is rather scorned as “who’s heard of a sheep that weren’t woolly!”

Internally, the welcoming bar with oak beam ceiling and panelling dates back to the 17th century, but in the 18th century the façade underwent a Georgian makeover. The latter is typically Georgian in style with two and a half floors over a cellar.

Lord Burlington’s house 1728-30

At the south end of the High Street, branching left along Newmarket Street, lies an undoubted architectural gem. Considered the best Georgian building in Skipton, this house, now the Devonshire Inn, was built by Richard Boyle, Lord Burlington, the most famous proponent nationally of the Palladian style. Burlington was Yorkshire born and held substantial estates in Yorkshire, including Bolton Abbey and parts of Wharfedale. Whilst many of his projects were based elsewhere, he is famous for his Palladian design of York Assembly Rooms and in Skipton he built this magnificent house.

Built in 1728-30 the building is now a Weatherspoon’s public house. It is five bays wide, square in plan and of three storeys including attic. The central three bays have a top pediment and project slightly. The building has an ashlar front with quoins and a large eaves cornice above which is a pyramidal roof. The central door has a classical architrave and pediment. Interestingly, Burlington acknowledges the local Yorkshire Dales vernacular by building the side walls in limestone rubble. The interior has been restored sympathetically and has retained its panelled window shutters and Georgian staircase.

The Cock & Bottle, 17th Century

Turning right at the bottom of the High Street, Swadford Street leads to the canal basin passing another of Skipton’s historic pubs, the Cock & Bottle (Fig 9). Of an unusual appearance, it looks to have been altered several times over the years with a 17th century building being given an 18th century Gothick makeover. The pub stretches a good way back from the frontage occupying an old burgage plot.

The heavy, stone slated roof has two attics each with Gothicised Venetian windows that have pointed arch central windows. The first-floor oriel windows have chamfered stone mullions and are supported on arched brackets.

The white painted stone with black detailing creates a quaint faux medieval effect, as does the lopsided façade and unequal ground floor windows with off centre door. These features, together with its low height (despite being three storeys), create a quaint ramshackle effect of a building that appears to be kept upright by its neighbours!

Industry & Transport

The 18th century was to witness significant changes to the medieval transport system. The old packhorse routes were proving inadequate and too slow with the horses carrying much lighter loads than were possible using wheeled wagons. The Georgians tackled this antiquated and woefully inadequate system by creating turnpike trusts to finance the necessary improvements. These included the construction and updating of many bridges. The Georgians also sought to improve waterborne transport with better river navigation and the creation of a canal system. These improvements facilitated the rise of trade and industry enabling the unleashing of the Industrial Revolution. Turnpike trusts petitioned Parliament to improve the existing roads with most active trustees being merchants concerned about trade.  The turnpike roads and the rise of the canal system established Skipton as a pivotal transport hub in Yorkshire.

Mill Bridge and Castle Inn

In 1753, the Keighley and Kendal Turnpike Trust was established to upgrade the route that passed through Skipton. In 1778 there was a second Act of Parliament to further widen and develop the road. The history of the bridge dates back to 1753 when it replaced a ford, with the current Mill Bridge c1780 (Fig 10). The bridge is stone built with a single segmental arch. Further Acts of Parliament connected Skipton by turnpikes to Otley, Knaresborough, Colne and Craco.

Horse power was the order of the day in the Georgian period and accommodation was needed for both carrier and horse. In the early 19th century, a coaching inn, the Castle Inn, was built beside the bridge with an adjacent stable. The inn is typical late Georgian of three storeys under a stone slate roof with a symmetrical ashlar façade of sash windows and a pedimented door. In keeping with the local vernacular, the side walls are limestone rubble.

Of particular interest for transport are the attached former stables which have rendered and white-washed painted rubble walls. The presence of the former barn and loft doors can be seen in what is now part of the inn.

The Canal Basin and Leeds-Liverpool

The second great horse powered transport development of the 18th century was the improved navigation of rivers and the construction of a canal system. In 1773, the Skipton to Bingley section of the Leeds Liverpool Canal opened. This development is seen as the onset of the Industrial Revolution in Skipton. The Leeds Liverpool canal opens up into an attractive canal basin (Fig 12), once a hive of industry, but now primarily domestic canal boats.

Several warehouses were located at or close by the canal basin, including one for banana ripening! Several industries were to benefit from the canals, including cotton, corn milling, paper manufacturing and, of great importance to the burgeoning Industrial Revolution, limestone.

The most prominent industrial building in Skipton, rising above the canal basin, is Victoria Mills which can be seen above trees to the right in figure 12. Built in 1847 as a steam powered corn mill, its convenient location reflects its independence from water power. Following its days as a corn mill it changed to being a paper mill before being converted into apartments at the end of the 20th century.

The sheer size of the building demonstrates the way steam power changed the scale of production as the Victorian era developed.  The main block is six storeys high (including attic) and seven bays wide. The eight bay, double gabled ends, with ‘WW’ and ‘1847’ inscribed are coped with kneelers and have broad chimney stacks which give the mill a quite distinctive look.

Springs Canal Branch and New Bridge

Shortly after the arrival of the Leeds Liverpool canal, a second canal was cut to serve a more local purpose.

The Springs Branch Canal (Fig 13) was opened in 1773 and then extended in 1794. It ran for half a mile around the back of the castle where loading wharfs were built to collect the limestone brought by tramway from the quarries at Embsay. These quarries were owned by Lord Thanet who lived in Skipton Castle at this time, and who paid for the canal extension. The canal, which ran alongside Eller Beck, transported thousands of tons of limestone, which was in great demand during the Industrial Revolution.  Limestone was important for iron smelting, fertiliser, and mortar and plaster.

To the right of Springs Canal can be seen the Royal Shepherd, a late Georgian Inn which is considered Skipton’s most haunted spot. Evidently the ghost of John Southworth, who was murdered here in 1782, still haunts visitors and outside along the towpath the spectre of Molly Barker can still be seen walking her ghostly dog, Tag. All considered, it’s a good job a stiff drink can be found in the pub! 

High Corn Mill

Farther along Springs Canal is the site of the medieval corn mill. The monopoly to grind corn was a jealously guarded right in the Middle Ages and usually belonged to the Lord of the Manor, who stood to gain considerably thereof. Evidence for a corn mill here dates back to 1310 and the powerful local Clifford family.

Situated along Eller Beck, the mill was water powered and the mill race can be seen exiting from the south culvert (Fig 14). The current buildings are a mix of 18th and 19th century but the waterwheel has been restored and High Corn Mill is open to visitors.

The railways – new railway station 1875-6

Unless you arrive by train, it is unlikely you will pass by the railway station. The 19th century railway swept by the edge of the town, thereby not impinging on the historic centre. However, the coming of steam did have an important effect of industry in the area, not just in the town itself, but for the limestone industry which eventually forsook the canals and built its own rail link.

The first station opened in 1847, when the Leeds & Bradford line extended, but rapid expansion with lines to Carlisle, Lancaster and Ilkley turned Skipton into an important hub and a new station was required.

The current station was designed by Charles Trubshaw, who was architect to the Northern Division of the Midland Railway. The handsome but fairly modest booking office (Fig 15) is built of coursed rubble with ashlar dressing. There are round arched openings to either side with white rose carvings. The central block stands proud and has an impressive corbelled chimney where there is a carved wyvern, the symbol of the Midland Railway.

The arc of the platform at Skipton has a classic Yorkshire appearance with the southbound platform of rich sandstone buildings fronted by thirteen bays of glazed canopies. These rest on cast iron columns with stiff leaf capitals and intricately carved iron brackets that create an impressive image for the alighting passenger.

Castle Walk, Eller Beck and Skipton Castle Woods

Having enjoyed Skipton town and its historic buildings, a good way to end a visit is to stroll along the walkway and woods that follow on from the terminus of Springs Canal. Here can be found further physical traces of Skipton’s industrial past and evidence of how construction played a part.

Castle Walk

Passing High Corn Mill and the end of Springs Canal an elevated path (Fig 17) provides access to Skipton Castle Woods. This picturesque walk serves as well to emphasise the imposing site chosen for the medieval castle which looms above the vertical cliff.

Eller Beck: Industry and Water Power

Eller Beck, on its journey to the River Aire, drove the waterwheels of Skipton from the Middle Ages until the early years of the Industrial Revolution, after which steam power became dominant.

The industrial sites along its course included a sawmill of 1785 (Fig 18); now a holiday cottage, this mill provided the timber much in demand during the rapid expansion of industrialisation.

 Skipton Castle Woods: The Gateway to the Dales

Skipton Castle Woods (Fig 20) was once part of a vast medieval hunting forest and is now in the care of the Woodland Trust, who describe it as a “rare ancient woodland habitat straight off the high street.” This is an apt description as the town is now left behind and a short, country walk takes the visitor to the glorious landscape of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. This could well be said to be ‘the Gateway to the Dales’.

Why visit Skipton?

A beautiful Yorkshire market town, Skipton offers a rich array of attractions besides its famous old castle and medieval parish church. Reflecting the history of the North of England, the town has a variety of architecture from the Middle Ages to Victorian and Edwardian times. It also attracts canal enthusiasts and nature lovers. Furthermore, it welcomes visitors with a wide range of cafes, restaurants and pubs, many of which are imbued with the local character. Whilst still an important town with an urban presence, it still hosts a four-day-a-week bustling market. Compact enough to enable all these qualities to be appreciated on foot, it is surrounded by open countryside where its pride of place is as the Gateway to the Dales. Skipton is a wonderful destination to visit and enjoy.